Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer

When Jon Krakauer reached the summit of Mt. Everest in the early afternoon of May 10, 1996, he hadn’t slept in fifty-seven hours and was reeling from the brain-altering effects of oxygen depletion. As he turned to begin his long, dangerous descent from 29,028 feet, twenty other climbers were still pushing doggedly toward the top. No one had noticed that the sky had begun to fill with clouds. Six hours later and 3,000 feet lower, in 70-knot winds and blinding snow, Krakauer collapsed in his tent, freezing, hallucinating from exhaustion and hypoxia, but safe. The following morning, he learned that six of his fellow climbers hadn’t made it back to their camp and were desperately struggling for their lives. When the storm finally passed, five of them would be dead, and the sixth so horribly frostbitten that his right hand would have to be amputated.

Into Thin Air is the definitive account of the deadliest season in the history of Everest by the acclaimed journalist and author of the bestseller Into the Wild. On assignment for Outside Magazine to report on the growing commercialization of the mountain, Krakauer, an accomplished climber, went to the Himalayas as a client of Rob Hall, the most respected high-altitude guide in the world. A rangy, thirty-five-year-old New Zealander, Hall had summited Everest four times between 1990 and 1995 and had led thirty-nine climbers to the top. Ascending the mountain in close proximity to Hall’s team was a guided expedition led by Scott Fischer, a forty-year-old American with legendary strength and drive who had climbed the peak without supplemental oxygen in 1994. But neither Hall nor Fischer survived the rogue storm that struck in May 1996.

Krakauer examines what it is about Everest that has compelled so many people — including himself — to throw caution to the wind, ignore the concerns of loved ones, and willingly subject themselves to such risk, hardship, and expense. Written with emotional clarity and supported by his unimpeachable reporting, Krakauer’s eyewitness account of what happened on the roof of the world is a singular achievement.

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For the Reading Challenge(s):
N/A

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The Reason

It’s one of the most recommended nonfiction books and I have an interest in reading about Everest in general.

The Quotes

“Getting to the top of any given mountain was considered much less important than how one got there: prestige was earned by tackling the most unforgiving routes with minimal equipment, in the boldest style imaginable.”

“Everest has always been a magnet for kooks, publicity seekers, hopeless romantics and others with a shaky hold on reality.”

“We were too tired to help. Above 8,000 meters is not a place where people can afford morality.”

“There were many, many fine reasons not to go, but attempting to climb Everest is an intrinsically irrational act—a triumph of desire over sensibility. Any person who would seriously consider it is almost by definition beyond the sway of reasoned argument.”

The Narrator(s)

Philip Franklin. It was amazing! I was completely immersed.

My Thoughts

I see why this book is so highly recommended! It is intense, emotional, exciting, and heartbreaking all at once. There has apparently been a lot of controversy surrounding this book and the events of the 1996 Everest disaster. There were criticisms thrown around about how individual people handled the situation as it was happening, how they helped or didn’t help, and so on. Obviously, all of this happened almost 30 years ago now and I’m late to the discussion, but I do have thoughts.

I think when you’re in a unique environment like Everest, all the normal protocols and morality for helping others don’t necessarily apply. You don’t have trained first responders you can call, you only have whoever’s up there with you, and very often you are already in compromised health yourself. It’s like if a person is drowning and you don’t know how to swim, don’t be a fool and jump in there to try to save them yourself; you’re only causing more problems because now rescuers have to rescue both you and the person who was originally drowning. In Everest, there are often no trained rescuers, fresh and energized, coming to help anyone in distress. You and the other climbers, all exhausted from their own climb, are all you have. And yes, if you aren’t in the best shape or condition, sometimes the choice you have to make is to not make the rescue, otherwise instead of one death, you’d have two or three or more.

Assuming that everything that Krakauer shares in this book is as accurate as he can be – and he admits that they may not be accurate because there have been discrepensies in each individual’s memories – he has been open with his actions and inactions with helping his fellow climbers, and takes some of the blame for the tragic deaths and suffering that happened. His writing voice in the book reflects his emotional distress about the tragedy, even as he tries his best to be objective about putting it down in words.

It’s easy to criticise others for their inaction, but honestly for me, you don’t know what you would do if you were in the same situation until you’ve been there yourself. It’s not even just being physically compromised and not able to physically help others, the conditions including the lack of oxygen to the brain also causes you to be mentally compromised and not able to think and make decisions. If it were me, I’d imagine that my lizard brain kicks in and survival instincts take over, and I’d be basically useless to help anyone but myself.

And that’s also why I will never ever climb Mount Everest! I am perfectly content reading about other people doing incredible things while I sit comfortably at home on the couch! The most risky thing I did was sitting on the edge of my seat while reading this book. I could’ve fallen off! I got into such a rabbit hole of googling more about Everest and watching some videos of Everest climbers after I finished the book. It’s an amazing story and I respect the hell out of people who do stuff like this.

My Rating

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/5 stars.

Have you read this book? Would you read this book? Did you like the book or do you think you would like it?